Clean-Smelling Perfume
I recently watched a video by my lovely friend, Charly on YouTube. She was talking about “Clean-Girl” scents and it got me intrigued. I loved her list, and I started to think about clean-smelling perfume (girl, boy, woman or man). Of course, I have a few that came to mind but in the interest of saving my tired eyes from staring at a computer screen for several more hours this evening, I figured I might limit this post to just one that caught my attention in the past couple of years.
*Spoiler Alert: I can’t seem to make up my mind about whether or not I want to own it, but it definitely fits the “clean-smelling” brief!
The perfume in question is Nanshe by Nishane.
Nanshe by Nishane
Nanshe is possibly the ultimate clean-smelling perfume. It certainly is polarising too! I have read so many mixed reviews on this one. I too, cannot seem to find the words to describe it, nor decide if I love it.
The opening is pungent, spicy and is a juxtaposition of both sharp and soft. It is a little vegetal and green and watery. The cardamom is zingy and crisp. The Yuzu is definitely detectable. Although, it blends weirdly with the carrot seed note in a way that is simultaneously addictive but also… off-putting.
In a way, it reminds me of the sensation of a shot drink that used to be served in bars as a prank to your friends. We called it the “cement mixer”. The ‘victim’ was encouraged to take a shot of a creamy liqueur like Baileys, hold it in their mouth and chase it with a second shot of lime. The combination immediately curdles the cream in the first shot, hence the name.
My impression was that I found it equally delicious and repulsive. I didn’t go back for a second round, but I was intrigued that I could enjoy the flavour of something whose texture was so abhorrent.
As for Nanshe – I have been back for a second round, and a third and a fourth.
In the case of Nanshe, you have the bright zingy notes of cardamom, yuzu and bergamot, combined with the vegetal, creamy carrot seed and orris. It clashes, but in a way that intrigues as much as it shocks.
As it dries down it becomes more of a floral, clean musk with hints of woodiness. I still get the greenness of the cardamom that I detected in the opening but it eventually dies down to just lingering in the background. I don’t particularly get any singular floral notes – I dont think – although I feel like I get the creamy texture of the ylang-ylang, and the fresh wateriness of the lily, but mostly I feel I probably get rose.
Overall in the dry-down it has a strong resemblance to me of fabric softener/dryer sheets. However, it is also more than that. (Although, to be clear, if you dont like “laundry” smelling fragrances – this likely won’t be for you).
I am not sure what the enigmatic “powdery notes” comprise of, but I do find this to be quite powdery some days, and other times creamy and spicy.
How can something be at once powdery, but also watery and fruity?
I have no idea, perhaps that is a question for Cécile Zarokian- the magician behind this fragrance.
So interesting.
So confusing!
I have been through a sample, and a small decant sent by a friend, and I am now working on a larger decant I purchased late last year. I remain undecided. My favourite time of year to wear this is in the dead of winter. It is a delightfully fresh palate cleanser after many weeks of heavy, spicy, ambery fragrances.
This still has the body, longevity and projection befitting a cold-weather perfume, whilst still fitting the description of a “clean-smelling” perfume.
It is definitely worth a try, but make sure you sample first!
Fragrance Profile
Top Notes: bergamot, carrot seeds, cardamom, yuzu
Heart Notes: water fruits & flower, rose absolute, jasmine sambac absolute, ylang ylang
Base Notes: orris, powdery notes, musk, patchouli, sandalwood