Guidance by Amouage
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The Odyssey Collection is a new collection from the House of Amouage. One fragrance in the line – Guidance – has received a lot of attention in recent months. Is it worth trying? Read on to get my thoughts!
How Guidance Smells
A very intriguing fragrance. Guidance was not a love at first sniff for me – not because I disliked it, but I simply wasn’t expecting it.
Oh joy of joys, a new release that actually threw me!
Guidance is categorised as an amber floral, although it also plays a bit like a fruity floral. It opens with a sweet pear note that is uplifting and youthful and develops with a creamy gourmand touch of hazelnut and vanilla. The dry-down progresses with elegant florals of osmanthus, rose and jasmine, all underpinned by seductive resins, woody, and subtle leathery tones, that never become dark or brooding.
Amongst the resins is the characteristic frankincense that the brand is known for, and it is not smoky at all. This is a raw resin that combines with the pear, hazelnut, vanilla and floral notes to create something bordering on a syrupy cream, but isn’t overpowering. Ambergris keeps it light and adds a fresh breeze element but is also beautifully balanced (for someone who does not typically handle ambergris in fragrances very well).
Guidance is Modern but not Predictable
By the time I got my nose on this beauty, it had already been on the market for several months. I had heard many reviews, mostly positive, but also a few that weren’t so complimentary. Largely, the less complimentary opinions appeared to stem from a sort of disdain for releasing something that might appeal to younger and/or more delicate olfactory palates.
Guidance is definitely not the exact style of the more “traditional” Amouage that I have become familiar with over the years. However, but it is also not a complete departure. In fact, despite my deep appreciation for some of their earlier work, it brings me great joy to see a House that I love, mixing up their style and trying new things and garnering appreciation from the community as a result.
And they are new.
This is not a ‘more of the same’ release that we see other companies pushing into the market. With this new Odyssey line, Amouage – under the creative guidance of Renaud Salmon – are proving that ‘creativity’ and ‘likeability’ are not mutually exclusive. They produce unique, interesting and engaging compositions, even as they experiment with scent profiles that speak to a wider audience.
Moving with the Times
Amouage is a House that understands that to have longevity, they also need to remain relevant. This, in turn may require new directions from time to time.
However, to the delight of many, Amouage also doesn’t abandon and discontinue all of their origin perfumes in the process. (NB Notwithstanding they have discontinued some but it seems like more of a curation with either the respective “man” or “woman” versions still remaining in the line). Thus, recognising the loyalty of their long-standing customers who continue to appreciate their earlier offerings and possibly – like me – even some of their new ones.
Bravo!
Perfumer: Quentin Bisch
Top Notes: Pear, Frankincense, Hazelnut
Heart Notes: Saffron, Rose, Jasmine Sambac, Osmanthus
Base Notes: Cistus, Sandalwood, Akigalawood, Ambergris, Vanilla
Sampler & Fragrance available for purchase in the US through Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, in the UK through Harrods, and Australia through Libertine Parfumerie, David Jones, Myer and City Perfume.