Safari (Woman) by Ralph Lauren

I thought that I had Safari Woman by Ralph Lauren figured out. However, when I wore it again recently, I realised that I had learned something new about this fragrance. I must say, that is one of the many things I love about perfume – how our perception of it changes over time.

Safari Woman was made in 1990, but I feel that this fragrance has an older-world feel to it. I would go so far as to say it smells vintage, but it doesn’t have the traditional labdanum-heavy amber base, which many people associate with “vintage” fragrances. Although, there is definitely an amber element to it.

I love that the golden colour of the juice of this fragrance is a reflection of the golden tones in the scent profile. Immediately, in the opening I find this fragrance to be quite green. If I think of colours, I would describe Safari as a golden green. It’s grassy, but not necessarily freshly cut green grass typically associated with galbanum. Instead it resembles dry, golden grass, growing wild and bending in the breeze.

The sweetness in the opening from the fruity notes of mandarin and blackcurrant, coupled with the floral elements, help to soften the sharp edges of the green elements. For this reason, I feel that people who normally shy away from sharp, green fragrances might still appreciate this one.

Opening

There is a sparkle to Safari in the opening, and thus I feel there are aldehyde’s present, even though they don’t appear on all sources of notes listed. There is a note of marigold, which I am not particularly familiar with in the real world. However there is an earthy, dry, herbaceous, almost soapy floral element to this that is quite prominent and I wonder if this is the contribution of what I perceive to be marigold.

Overall, the opening conjures up images of walking through a field of wheat that has most recently turned from green to gold and may soon be ready to harvest in the coming weeks. It feels like it has a whisper of outdoor freshness to it, anchored by the earthy, woody, floral elements.

The Mid

As always, I’m not particularly good at separating different floral elements. However, in the mid I do find the floral notes to step forward and take the spotlight in this fragrance. I imagine that I can detect white florals such as orange blossom, rose, and what I imagine to be the more dry, crisp florals of hyacinth or carnation.

Dry-down

The base is comprised predominantly woody notes, including sandalwood, cedar, patchouli, and vetiver. Different sources tend to list different notes, and I agree with the few that list oakmoss, or something that imitates it in the base. However, regardless of the listed woody notes, what I mostly get in the dry down is orris.

Here, the orris is quite dense, enveloping, and earthy. It also takes on that element of old make-up that is so common with iris/orris-based fragrances of yesteryear. However, balanced against the more brighter, dry grassy and floral elements of the opening and mid, the orris does not drag the fragrance into heavy, suffocating territory. Despite the denseness of the fragrance and the opulent presence that it has, the wear still feels light and breezy and dry, and in the latter stages, slightly soapy and clean.

Safari has great longevity. Although it wears like a breezy golden warming daytime fragrance, it holds its own in the more formal environment of evening-wear.

Final Notes

This is a playful take on a more serious, mature, vintage classic style of perfume, and I adore it.

Signature scent worthy, for sure.

Stats

Nose: Dominique Ropion

Launched: 1990

Top Notes: Galbanum, Tagetes (Marigold), Narcissus, Hiacynth, Orange, Black Currant, Mandarin Orange, Aldehydes and Cassis

Heart Notes: Narcissus, Orris Root, Rosemary, Italian Jasmine, Rose, Lily of the Valley and Orange Blossom

Base Notes: Moss, Tonka bean, Vetiver, Amber, Sandalwood, Cedar, Patchouli and Styrax